Found My Happy Place in Sintra
So far on my trip I’ve had a lot on my to-do list and have been going non stop. Yesterday I think I hit a wall and today I had to recalibrate...and that’s exactly what happened. Before I left on my trip I told myself I would be OK with not doing everything on my list…such a burden was lifted when I finally did that, it just took a few days.
Exhausted from yesterday, I slept in a bit longer this morning and headed out to Sintra with only a ticket to see Quinta da Regaleira booked...Pena Palace or Morash Castle May have to wait.
The weather was calling for rain in the afternoon and with a late start to my day, I was not sure it would be nice enough to spend a couple hours wandering outside in the palace gardens, plus I figured the views might be obstructed by any bad weather...so I decided to see how things went and book a ticket later in the day if there were any left. Best decision of my entire trip.
Found my way to the train station, bought my day pass for Sintra and connected easily with the local bus on the other side of the 40 minute train ride. Everything I read said avoid visiting either of these places in Sinatra between 10am -3pm when all the tours are there, but that’s exactly when I arrived.
To my surprise it was not that bad...thankfully because I’m maxed out on high tourist traffic areas at the moment and was looking for some zen time. And that is exactly what I got at Quinta da Regaleira. This World Heritage Site is considered a cultural landscape of Sintra and is an example of eccentric new-gothic 19th century architecture.
As you arrive on the curvy...and you guessed it…hilly roads of Sintra it was quite a magnificent sight with it’s steep towers, stone carvings and gargoyles. The original owner was a wealthy Brazilian mining owner who was fascinated by the secretive religious orders of the Kingston Templar and Freemasons, so it has some very unique features throughout the property.
Upon entry it was like I was suddenly transported to a whimsical paradise inside the massive gardens filled with lush greenery, flowers in full bloom, pathways to places unknown, caves, waterfalls, hidden passages, along with birds chirping and the sun shinning…not to mention the stunning villa towering in the sky.
I was in such need to finally be in my element wandering around in nature, exploring hidden surprises and finding beautiful things to photograph. The fact that I had no idea where I was most of the time in this place...seems to be a consistent theme for me...made no difference. I could have stayed there all day.
The big attraction was the Initiation Well...a spiral staircase that descends to the base of a well where a Templar’s Cross is inscribed on the floor. Once at the bottom you are taken through various caves that come out to beautiful waterfalls and gardens. Pretty impressive I must say.
After exploring these magnificent gardens I took a quick look inside the villa and wow! The woodwork on the ceilings was so impressive and intricate, door knockers from out of this world and stunning tile work...not to mention the views.
After getting some directions from a US couple who was heading there, I set on my way and arrived just as the skies opened up. Thankfully I was inside a shop...so I took advantage of the time to pick up a couple items...because things were flooding. People trying to get in from the rain under awnings and inside shops and restaurant doorways...it was messy and cobblestone is not the greatest to walk on when wet.
Thankfully it only lasted about 15 minutes, so once it was over, I decided not to go to the palace and instead enjoy time exploring all the little alleyways and stop to get a proper meal...this was my mistake yesterday. And boy am I glad I made that decision.
I found a cute restaurant with a beautiful view and convinced the server to let me sit outside, even though she warned me they expected more thundershowers all afternoon. And she was right...just as my food arrived thunder sounded and the rain and winds started. Thankfully a group of pretty rambunctious young guys from Liverpool let me add my table to theirs so I was under the awning a bit more.
This time the rain went on for over an hour, but the best part was I had an incredible meal...traditional Portuguese codfish shredded and mixed with potato sticks and eggs. I also enjoyed my first coffee with milk since arriving and my meal was served with a side of green olives and bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Delicious!!!
After an hour I decided to get a table inside and have a glass of green wine made in the Douro Valley, as well as a local Sinatra dessert...Queijada Pudding. All rested, dry and fuelled up, I decided to look around a bit more when I entered a shop and found myself in front of another Portuguese delight...Ginja in a chocolate cup.
Can you say pour me a cup!!! This local cherry liqueur is Devine…especially with the chocolate. At 1 Eruo for a shot, this would be very dangerous to have in Canada....they seem to sell it everywhere here too!
From here I headed back to the train station while enjoying some of the local architecture and beautiful views...by this point the sun was back out and shinning bright. I made it to the train just as it arrived and headed back to Lisbon where I decided to take a bit of a stroll around...time to give Lisbon a second chance…so glad I did.
This time I found my way to the Elevador de Santa Justa. This elevator takes people up seven stories from the Baixa district where I am staying to Largo do Carmo. It is a beautiful piece of architecture made of wrought iron with neon gothic arches and geometric patterns.
I didn’t want to wait in the line to board so I went up the stairs and at the top caught the lowering of the flag by the military guard...trumpet and all…nice surprise.
I spent some more time walking around...it was a beautiful Sunday evening...and found myself back at the Arches of Rua Augusta, which I finally realized is the pedestrian street I read about with all the shops and cafes. Slowly I am starting to put the pieces of the puzzle together for Lisbon.
Last stop was a return visit to the spring market to purchase some jewelry from some local artists...my favourite thing to do while travelling is to meet the artists I buy things from - makes things so much more meaningful and richer. And of course I needed to try some sangria made from red port while I was there.
So my verdict on Lisbon. A great city with its different neighbourhoods and many things to do...you just need the time to explore and take everything in at a nice pace.
Tomorrow morning I am heading south by bus to the Algarve. Should arrive mid day and I’m looking forward to relaxing a bit and exploring the area while there.
Until then...share in the experience.
Lisa