The Magic of Fado
For a travel day I can’t say it was a down day. Left Porto mid morning for my 4 hour train ride to Lisbon...pretty non eventful expect I was in the wrong seat for half the journey and then when I had to move 6 cars up I was a bit stressed I would not be reunited with my suitcase that was stored back in my original car. But as most things do, it all worked out and I met a few lovely people who gave me some good tips about places to see while I’m here…this sign pretty much sums thing up.
Thankfully I have another fantastic host who sent me instructions to get from the train to my apartment using the Metro...including pictures to help guide me along the way! I really had no clue where I was going, so I was extremely grateful for the clear directions to the Metro and then how to walk from there + taking one of Lisbon’s Elevators to get to the bottom of the steps up to my apartment. I’m learning stairs and hills are the norm here, so I might as well be introduced to them right from the beginning…my place is half way up in the pinkish building.
It was a hot day when I arrived, so once I unpacked and figured out where I was on the map, I headed out for a bit to get orientated and enjoy the weather. First on my list was to find the jumping on point for Tram 28, the tourist tram I want to take tomorrow...found it only a 5 minute walk from my place - score! More to come on that experience tomorrow.
I then decided I should pick up some groceries for dinner...a very nice grocery store is right outside my place so that works out great. After picking up some food and eating with the patio doors open to a little garden, I decided at the last minute to try and find a Fado I read about yesterday in the Water Museum.
So with Google Maps in hand I was off in hopes of getting to where I wanted to be in time to see the show. I really had no idea where I was going, so I was at the mercy of the internet steering me in the right direction. First stop was the Metro on a Friday night at 6pm...BAD decision. I have been on public transit before that was busy, but this was insane. At one point they were pulling in a person so the doors could close. I had no idea how I was going to get off at my stop, but somehow 5 minutes later I was off and on may way...thankful that was over.
The Water museum was located in the rich area of Lisbon...Principe Real. Beautiful building, cafes and restaurants down many side streets, huge beautiful tress and lots of stairs!
I was surprised I did not get lost on my 20 minute walk, but I was pretty tired and hot by the time I made it up the hills and stairs. At the top I arrived at this beautiful park with a huge tree called a jacaranda, with purple blossoms dropping off in the wind right at the museum entrance...it was like it was calling my name to come on over.
I didn’t buy a ticket in advance in case I got lost, so I risked not getting a seat...I guess it was my night, because I arrived just as they were opening and had tickets available.
Fado is a traditional music genre in Portugal. The music is performed by a singer, a Spanish guitarist and a 12-stringed Portuguese guitarist. It is elegant, melancholic and at times full of energy. The music does not have a chorus and instead repeats a melody. The words can change depending on the singer...this Fado was traditional style, but also demonstrated the influences it had on other musical genres. I was not sure what to expect, but I had no idea it what an incredible experience I was about to have.
Fados are everywhere in Lisbon, but I decided to go to this specific one because I loved the idea of listening to the music inside an underground cistern using its natural acoustics to elevate the music. That’s right - the water museum used to be where the water for the various fountains in the city once came from and is located under the Principle Real garden. It opened in 1833 and was deactivated in 1940, then became a museum in 1994. What an amazing intimate venue for live music...again, think acoustics!!!
The show had about 30 people in attendance and I decided to sit in one of the 4 seats that were in the balcony looking down over the performers...no regrets.
For the next hour I was transported into another world full of passion, sadness, excitement and hope. Everything sounded so magical inside the cistern it gave me goosebumps, especially when Sofia Ramos sang some of those big notes or when the rhythmic sounds of the Spanish guitar came through. This was by far one of my top 5 experiences while travelling and am so grateful I decided to check it out, found my way there and tickets were still available. It must have been fate.
It’s Friday night so the city was alive with people. I decided to check out the viewpoint at Miradouro de Sao Pedro...it did not disappoint, with views of the Castle next to where I am staying, the water and the many districts that make up the city.
Little stalls selling traditional snacks, drinks, jewelry, you name it. It was a gorgeous night as well, so a nice surprise. I took a quick look around and I plan to pop back over tomorrow evening when I am not so tired...it’s been another full day.
Looking forward to exploring the city of Lisbon tomorrow and seeing what other surprises it has in store for me.
Until then...share in the experience.
Lisa